Method of treating knitted goods containing shrinkable fibres and products thereof



NIETHOD F TREATING KNITTED GOODS CON- TAINING SRINKABLE FIBRES AND PROD-5 UCTS THEREOF Michel Jean Andr Laval, Reims, France No Drawing.Application December 22, 1953, Serial No. 399,829

Claims priority, application France October 15, 1953 17 Claims. (or.28-76) It is known, particularly from French Patent No. 898,309 of the27th September 1943, that'it is possible to utilize drawn polyvinylchloride fibres in combination with other, non-shrinkable fibres inorder to obtain cloque or oreping effects, or to close the pores of afabric or the mesh of knitted goods.

The present invention has for an object a new method of shrinking whichmakes it possible to obtain, starting with knitted goods, textile fabricarticles possessing after treatment a very close structure no longerreminiscent of the initial appearance of the knitted goods but havingthe appearance of a suede fabric or buckskin. These knitted goods areconstituted for example of spun yarn containing in intimate mixtureshrinkable fibres of polyvinyl chloride, particularly fibres obtained bycarrying into effect French Patent No. 913,919 of the 5th May 1942, andnatural, artificial or synthetic fibres which are dyed or undyed andwhich are markedly less shrinkable under the conditions of treatment(which latter fibres will for convenience of reference hereinafter becalled substantially non-shrinkable).

The invention accordingly provides a method of treating knitted materialincluding threads constituted by intimate mixtures of shrinkablepolyvinyl fibres and substantially non-shrinkable fibres, for thepurpose of obtaining material having the appearance of a suede fabric orbuckskin, characterized in that a plurality of operations of shrinkingof the knitted material are carried out, firstly in a moist medium andfinally in the dry state, while between the damp and dry shrinkingoperations are interposed dressing operations such as waterproofing,roughening, teasing, sueding or emerying, and any desired operations inpreparation for and of dyeing.

The method of treatment of the present invention may comprise thefollowing phases:

A first rapid shrinking in an aqueous medium of a fabric preferably inthe fiat state at a temperature between 90 and 100 C., and preferablycarried out so that the shrinkage obtained varies for example between 50and 75% of the total shrinkage required, depending on the texture of theknitted material;

A second shrinking carried out on the fabric rolled on a rotatingsupport in an aqueous medium at a temperature ranging for example from90 to 100 C., the shrinking time being from one to two hours; preferablyso that this second treatrnent. adds to the first shrinking from 10 to20% of the totalshn'nkage required;

Operations of preparation fordyeing and of dyeing, if desired;

Dressing operations, such as waterproofing, if desired, and sueding,that is to say: roughening, teasing, shearing, or emerying, theseoperations being intended to give the fabric the appearance of buckskin;

A third dry shrinking of the fabric without tension, andpreferably inthe flat state, at a temperature variable with the speed .of passage ofthe knittedjmaterial through the apparatus, this temperaturebeing-variable between 2,805,463 Patented Sept. .10,

ice

2 110 and 140 C. This last operation brings the shrinkage of the knittedmaterial to the maximum.

The invention further covers as new industrial products, fabrics orarticles for whatever purpose as obtained by carrying out the aforesaidmethod, which products it was impossible to obtain by previously knownmethods, wherein the shrinking was carried out in a single operation andin the same wet or dry medium.

There will now be given two examples of performance of the method, whichare intended to illustrate the invention without however limiting thesame in any way.

Example I The fabric to be treated is made up of threads constituted byan intimate mixture of of viscose fibers in the form of staple and 30%of drawn poylvinyl chloride fibres prepared for example in accordancewith Example 3 of French Patent No. 913,919 mentioned above. This fabricis knitted on a circular interlock knitting machine.

of a suitable gauge for the metric number.

The fabric is first cut in the lengthwise direction, along a slip-stitchwhere possible, so as to obtain a fiat fabric which can be treatedbreadthwise.

A fabric of this kind is introduced into a vat filled with water broughtto and maintained at boiling point throughout the entire operation. Thelength of the vat may be 5 to 10 metres and the fabric is transportedwhile submerged without tension, at a speed which may vary between 5 and10 metres per minute.

The fabric is cooled at the outlet of the vat by passing same betweenthe rolls of a foulard press of classical type whereby water present inthe fabric is expelled. As

a result of the above treatments the fabric undergoes a first shrinkagein the fiat state and over the Width thereof. After this first shrinkingthe fabric is introduced into a reeling vat of conventional typefilledwith cold water and the water is progressively brought to boiling point.This temperature is maintained for one or two hours while the fabric inthe rolled upstate is turned in the vat, after which the bath is cooledby the introduction of cold water. The fabric is then washed andbleached, either spread out over its full Width or rolled up in tubularform, in a washer of conventional type.

The fabric is then vat dyed with by suitable processes.

After dyeing, the fabric is partly dried by suction or by a foulardpress. It is then further dried, either while stretched out mechanicallyat a temperature which may vary between 60 and C., or in the open airafter being spread out.

After drying, waterproofing is carried out by impregnation in a bathcontaining either emulsified waxes or a chromium stearochloride, or. anyother waterproofing agent. V A further drying of the fabric is carriedout under the same conditions as after dyeing; all traces of folds arethen eliminated by passing through a vaporising tentering machine ofconventional type, and on falling from the tentering machine the fabricis passed several timesivigorously over a metallic teasenwith andagainst the nap.

This teasing operation is followed by the shearing operation on a tableshearer, whereof which several passages may be necessary, as the napobtained by teasing must be plain and cut very short, in order to obtaina very .fin'e sueded appearance. 7 1 a The fabric is again passed overthe vaporising tentering machine, in order to remove the folds andcreases, so that it may be in perfect condition when subjected to thefollowing operation, that is to say when introducedinto a machine havinghot air circulation compartments where the temperature is raised tobetween and 1,40 C. In the last compartments. The drive is obtainedwiththe suitable dyestufis and on thelength of the machine. After thisoperation of shrinking and fixing, the fabric must rest in regular foldsforcooling, for a time which may vary between 5 and 15 hours. Aftercooling, the fabric is passed over a vaporising tentering machine forfinal equalisation, and finally it is wound on a tube. M

V 3 Examplell.

" The fabric to be treated is composed of threads obtained from intimatemixing of 80% of wool and 20% of drawn polyvinyl chloridefibres. It isknitted on a rib frame.

All *the operations indicated in Example I up to and including theffirst tentering are carried out. However, the washing of the fabric andalso the dyeing are effected :with products and by a method suitable forwool. [According toth e effectdesired, either the fabric may be teasedand sheared, or if desired to retain its clear and close appearance,these operations may be eliminated.

Final shrinking and fixing are then proceeded with as in Example I. r

Example III v Th e fabiric to be treated is composed of threads obtainedfrom intimate mixing of 65% of wool, 20% of polyv'nyl chloride fibresand 15% of viscose. It is knitted 'on a suitable rib frame.

'All the operations indicated in Examples I and II are carried out. 7Final shrinking and fixing are then proceededwith as in Example I.

V I 2 Example IV The fabric to be treated-is composed with threadsobtained from mixing of 60% of wool, 10% cotton and 15% of polyvinylchloride fibresl All the operations indicated in Examples I and II arethen carried out and 'final shrinking and fixing are proceededwith'asExample I.

Example V V The fabric to be treated is composed with threads obtainedfrommixing of 70% f superpolyamide (nylon) and. 30% of polyvinylchloride fibres; This fabric is knitted on .a circular interlockknitting machine. All the operations indicated in Example I are carriedout. However the washing of the fabric and also the dyeing are effectedwith products and by a method suitable for superpolyamides.

It will be .clearly' understood 'that -the inventionis not limited tothe examples described above and that it extends to several variants.Thus;

1; The percentage of shrinkable fibres may varyinthe "intimate mixture,in any suitable proportions.

2. The intimate mixtures may contain, together with the shrinkablefibres, one or more sorts of non shrinkable 3. -Inorder to obtain thesueded or buckskin appearance, an emeryin'g machine may be nsedinsteadof a metallic teaser. j

4. The shearing of the fabricmay be elirninateiil, depending on theappearance'of the fabric and *the use to :whichit is to'be put. 7 7 5.Any machine permitting the action of heat 'onthe fabric withouttension'inay be suitably employed foi' the operations of shrinking andfixing, and so ;'on; l V v v 6. The various stitches obtainable'on meshframes are compatible with the processof the invention.

7. 0n hosiery frames threadsnsuc'h "as .those defined above and otherthreadsinot containing shrinkable fibres can alternate. e

r V 78, 'Ihe componentfibres canbe dyed before weaving,

. 4 r in which case the operations of dyeing mentioned above are notrequired.

Knitted goods treated according to the present invention are utilisablefor the production of clothing, furniture and vehicle upholstery,synthetic leather goods, or for the production of gloves, footwear, andso on. Whatlclaimisr' l. A process for treating fabric knitted fromthreads having a fiber mixture of polyvinyl chloride and relativelynon-shrinkable fibers, comprising shrinking said fabric in hot Water,subjecting said Water treated fabric to me chanical abrasion, andfurther shrinking said abraded fabric in a heated dry environment.

2. A process for treating fabric knitted from threads having a fibermixture of polyvinyl chloride and relatively non-shrinkable fibers,comprising first rapidly shrinking said fabric in water heated to 90100C., cooling said fabric,.additionallyshrinking saidfabric inaboilingwater bath, subjecting said waterwtre'ated fabric to mechanicalabrasion, and furthershrinking said abraded material in a-dryenvironment heated to 110-,140" C.

3. A process as claimed in claim 2 wherein said threads have a fibermixture of 70% viscosefibers in the form of staple and polyvinylchloride.

4. A process as claimed in claim 2 wherein said threads have a fiber,mixture of 180% wool and 20% polyvinyl chloride.

. polyvinyl chloride.

g in said threads have a fiber con 7. A process as claimed in claim 2wherein said threads have a fiber mixture of 70% nylon and 30% polyvinylchloride. 1 8. A process for treating fabric knitted from threads havinga fiber mixture of 15 to 30% polyvinyl chloride and-70-to of relativelynon-shrinkable fibers, comprising passing said fabric without tensionthrough a water bath heated to -100" C. for about l minute, cooling saidfabric, rolling said fabric along its longitudinal axis, circulatingsaid rolled fabric through a second water bath, raising the heat of saidsecond water bath to the boiling point after ,the entry of said rolledfabric, maintaining said boiling point for '1 to 2 hours, cooling ,saidbath, removing :said rolled fabric from said bath, nnrolling saidfabric, passing said fabric over a teaser with and against thenap,-:shearing said teased fabric to obtain a suede fabric throughcirculating hot air at about IDS- C. without tension on the fabric.

p 9. A preshrunk fabric resulting from the process of claim 1. r

10. A preshrunk fabric resulting from the process of claim 2.

tent of 80% wool and 20% drawn polyvinyl chloride.

,12. A preshrunk fabric as claimed in claim 10 wherein said threadshave. a fiber mixture of 65% wool, 15%

viscose and 20% polyvinyl chloride.

' "13; A preshrunk fabric as claimed in claim-10 wherein saidthreads-have a fiber mixture of 60% Wool, 10% cotton, and 15 polyvinylchloride.

14. A preshrunk fabric "as claimed in claim 10 where- I nylon and 30%polyvinyl chloride.

15. A preshrunk fabric as claimed inclaim 10 wherein said threads have afiber mixture of 70% viscose fibers in the form of staple and,30%polyvinyl. chloride;

,16.3A process for treating fabric knitted from threads having a fibermixture of polyvinyl chloride and .relatively non-shrinkable fibers,comprising shrinking said fabric in t wa subjecting said-watertreated-fabric to appearance, and passing said sheared preshrunk fabricas claimed inclaim 10 where-f mechanical abrasion, shearing and furthershrinking said abraded fabric in a heated dry environment.

17. A process for treating fabric knitted from threads having a fibermixture of polyvinyl chloride and relatively non-shrinkable fibers,comprising first rapidly shrinking said fabric in water heated to 90100C., cooling said fabric, additionally shrinking said fabric in a boilingwater bath, subjecting said water treated fabric to mechanical abrasion,shearing and further shrinking said abraded material in a dryenvironment heated to 110-140 C.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS2,221,232 Clavel et a1. Nov. 12, 1940 6 Rugeley Mar. 31, 1942 WedlerMar. 7, 1944 Bell et a1. June 27, 1944 Bell et a1 June 27, 1944 KahilJune 11, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS France July 3, 1944

1. A PROCESS FOR TREATING FABRIC KNITTED FROM THREADS HAVING A FIBERMIXTURE OF POLYVINYL CHLORIDE AND RELATIVELY NON-SHRINKABLE FIBERS,COMPRISING SHRINKING SAID FABRIC IN HOT WATER, SUBJECTING SAID WATERTREATED FABRIC TO MECHANICAL ABRASION, AND FURTHER SHRINKING SAIDABRADED FABRIC AN A HEATED DRY ENVIRONMENT.